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Archive for the ‘2007 January Trip’

One Brave Woman!

January 28, 2007 By: Kari Category: 2007 January Trip, General 1 Comment →

Chrauk Tiek/The Grady Grossman School: A woman handed me a letter today after a community meeting at the school. The letter expresses her deep concern about her communities lack of water, lack of income opportunity, lack of health care and lack of law enforcement. Her name is Tou Cham Soka. She is pregnant and she is brave.Kari with Tou Cham Soka.

The letter details the overthrow of the good community leader Bun Vanna by a local corrupt authority, the newcomers who have come to the cut down the trees, the bribes taken from oxcart and wood truck drivers carrying tree trunks from the illegal logging. The parade of trees out of the forest goes on day and night. At night the bribe payments are less, so the poorest oxcart drivers work in the night.

The newcomer houses are easy to spot, there are piles of neatly stacked hardwood in measured units of 3 meters by 2 meters; a harvest for which the family earns $2.62.

At meetings with the schoolchildren and villagers we ask for more letters we can take to the Ministry of Environment or WildAid, or some one who will listen. It’s amazing to me Monk speaking at community meeting.that no one has come from the conservation organizations working in Cambodia to speak to the people living here. The Aural Wildlife Sanctuary is the most imminently threatened region in the country at the moment and there are many local people who want to protect the forest. They know their future is at stake. They know how valuable the trees are to retaining water during the rainy season for slow release during the drought season. They feel powerless to stop the destruction. Many are afraid to write the letters and state the real problem. Except one brave woman. It is a start.

We will begin here at the Grady Grossman School with the Abundant Forest training center, to teach the children how to plant a diverse number of species to produce food andStudents play with a Claypot Pinata. generate income, to conserve water and grow trees. We hope to win over many people. People who want to stop participating in the problem but they have no choice. Transporting wood to the city is the only current way many know to get enough to feed their family everyday. They live hand to mouth. Most villagers ask me for a water pump to help grow their farm. The community leaders are asking for the government to fix the dam at the nearby Peam Levia Lake to provide better irrigation. The government does not respond.

We drove to Peam Levia yesterday, through the forest in the back of a wood carrying truck. During the dry season the water is low and most of the wide open area is marshy, but it is beautiful green with many waterfowl. Andre, a trained ornithologist, says the birds are the most amazing species he has ever seen—and he was trained in the Amazon! In the distance, mostly obscured by a haze of smoke from the burning forest, I could almost make out Aural Mountain, the highest in Cambodia.

The teachers harvested giant snails from the lake. Boiled and grilled over a fire it was best Giant snails.the escargot I’ve ever tasted. We ate picnic style and talked. Community leaders explained the problem again. Vong Sovann, the truck driver, asked me to buy him a video camera so he can monitor and document the perpetrators burning and cutting the forest, although he is available for hire to transport wood. With no choices heSnail party needs the income to feed his family. Like most of the people living here, he is very willing to change if there is another option.

The children are waiting in the big truck to take me swimming at the “stream water”. I must go, now.

It is difficult to express the extreme urgency to support this village. Their future is doomed if we don’t. What is happening here now effects everyone on the entire planet. We all need the trees to fix the CO2 produced in industrial nations and the United States. There is a diverse array of endangered species living in the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary that our planet will lose forever, and most of all the people need water and soil to grow food. Without the trees, we have nothing.

The villagers understand this, but they need our help and they need it now. Reward Tou Cham Soka for her bravery!

Please buy Bones That Float, A Story of Adopting Cambodia and Spread the Word.

Book coverGo to www.BonesThatFloat.com to order pre-publication hardcover copies at a discount price of $20 (+tax & shipping). 25% of the proceeds benefit the Friends of the Grady Grossman School, Cambodia.

A link to an eBook is available with each order.
Autographed hardcover copies will be sent in March. Regular price is $24.95 (+tax & shipping).

I asked the children, “who wants to save the trees?�

January 26, 2007 By: Kari Category: 2007 January Trip, General No Comments →

Chrauk Tiek Village: As we drove north from Kampong Speu through the afternoon light, toward Aural Mountain, a nail spike flatted our tire in the middle of nowhere. The ensuing tire change and repair took 3 hours. It was well after dark before we arrived in Chrauk Tiek by moto escort with school director, Ngim So Bun, and English teacher, Din Narith, negotiating a path through the night over a heavily potholed road. As I watched a man who lived in a shanty repair a rubber tire by hand with nothing more than a tuna can and some flame, I felt humbled by my total dependence on such ingenious people. And an hour later, with my head slamming against the ceiling of our van with each massive pothole, I noticed red glowing embers in the night. My heart sunk when the glow registered as trunks of burning trees.

The forest destruction since my last visit in 2005 is unbelievable. Andre’s gruffCharcoal being transported from the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary to Phnom Penh. exasperations have increased to a hearty “Holy Shit!� The road is an absolute mess, made much worse in the rainy season by the transport of logs and charcoal. We passed 20 moto trailers carrying charcoal and 16 vans and mini-trucks carrying hardwood in one afternoon, all on their way to Phnom Penh. They stop at several checkpoints along the way and pay their bribes to the forest rangers. A fancy red sports car is parked under the house near the Forest Administration building; along the roadside, whole families covered in soot tend their kilns.

This is the entrance to the famous Cardamom Mountains and the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary, a biological world heritage site; a forest with the most diverse species of flora and fauna in Southeast Asia and the ancestral region of the Souy people. I don’t think even education can stop the onslaught. I felt sick and sad.

Kari, with Yoen the interpretor, meets with the parents and students of the Grady Grossman School. In the morning, the children come to school with their parents for an assembly to meet us. It is the first time I get to speak to them one to one, without the pomp and circumstance of the government officials who usually accompany me on my visits. I tell them I am proud of the hard working teachers and students, especially the soccer team. Our teachers taught the children how to play soccer and they won second place in the district tournament. It was their very first sporting event.

I told the students and parents about the learning games I brought, along with a newKari teaches students to play one of the new games. computer so that more children can study in Din Narith’s class. When I asked who would like to take a music class, everyone raised their hands. I had discussed with Arn Chorn-Pond about bringing a master from his Cambodian Living Arts program here, so the children can be exposed to the traditions of their own culture. The only music they ever Students learning to build with Magnetix.hear is Chinese style love songs blaring from the karaoke shop in town. Arn and I want the children to learn the foundation of Cambodian music, so they can write new songs and communicate the message to save the forest through music and dance.

Students playing jump rope in the school yard.After the assembly, the children played games in the schoolyard and the community leaders gathered to talk to me. My old friend Bun Vana, former community chief, Ek Chun, the Souy village group leader, Prom Thommmacheat, a monk praying for the forest, and Nou Nuon the new Deputy Head of Commune. They are all desperate to stop the forest destruction, especially for the Souy people whose ancestorsLogging operations in the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary. are forest spirits. Bun Vana was evicted from the community chief position last July in a secret meeting between four higher-ranking officials, and replaced with a newcomer, Vy Sok. The forest has been burning ever since. They feel powerless to stop the destruction.

A student at the Grady Grossman School writing a letter to save the nearby forest.I asked the children, “who wants to save the trees?� and everyone raised their hands. I asked the community leaders to have everyone in their villages write a letter. The ones who can write can sign their name and the ones who cannot will thumbprint letters written by their children. The children will draw pictures. I asked the Head of Commune, Nou Noun to ask all 7,743 families under his jurisdiction to participate. I don’t know where I am going to take them, but I promised I would not stop until someone takes action.

Monks in prayer at Buddhism Srei Puos, the forest temple.In the afternoon, the teachers and elders took us to see Buddhism Srei Puos, the forest temple. Thirty monks are praying for the fires to stop burning every night. They tie saffron robes around the trees to make them holy. The monks and community leaders fight the fire, thrashing large branches of green leaves to the ground. We choke on the smoke and our feet are blackened by soot.

Fighting the fires by thrashing large branches of green leaves to the ground.

Further on we meet with former soldier’s hauling oxcarts full of tree trunks and sawn timber from the mill in the forest. The operation is orchestrated by Mr. Pea, a former Khmer Rouge commander. His kids go to my school.

The monk points to a forest covered mountain in the distance, Phnom Knong Jaik, telling me that is where the forest animals are hiding, tigers, gibbons, sunbears and more. Traps lay all around the base of the mountain and the monks cut them loose at night. He tells me they recently found a Sunbear in a trap and tried to save it, but it died from theMonk fighting the fires. wounds with monks praying all around it.

The destruction of this forest is imminent. The winds are blowing hard, the soil turning to sand; the desertification process can be seen and felt. The rains have not come for 4 years. The rivers are drying up. The local people want to stop it, but feel powerless. They know their children’s future is as stake.

Please help us help them.

Please buy Bones That Float, A Story of Adopting Cambodia and Spread the Word.

Book coverGo to www.BonesThatFloat.com to order pre-publication hardcover copies at a discount price of $20 (+tax & shipping). 25% of the proceeds benefit the Friends of the Grady Grossman School, Cambodia.

A link to an eBook is available with each order.
Autographed hardcover copies will be sent in March. Regular price is $24.95 (+tax & shipping).

Our van is packed with books, maps, games, and a new computer…

January 25, 2007 By: Kari Category: 2007 January Trip, General No Comments →

Kampong Speu: Our van is packed with books, maps, games, and a new computer as we travel westward through the outskirts of Phnom Penh, past rows of garment factories and onward toward Kampong Speu. The air is hot and choked with the dust of a thousand motos and the traffic of overloaded trucks carrying goods from the province to market in the city.

Our research in the city has gone exceedingly well. We’ve met with the education project officer at American Assistance for Cambodia (AAFC) to buy a new computer for our students, a musician to discuss arts classes, and biomass and renewable energy experts exploring simple technologies appropriate for Cambodia. Everyone we have met with believes our idea shows promise. Our vision to use school level education to engage children in solving local economic and environmental problems with hands-on learning is utterly revolutionary.

There-in lies the difference in the fundamental reality of an educated person. I can come from half the world away, negotiate a foreign city, be resourceful, ask questions, network connections to expertise, and gather the resources from many levels to advance a vision of sustainability. These are simple skills that our teachers and village community lack and I hope our project will teach. Now we face the challenge of connecting our vision to the reality of Cambodian village life.

The Abundant Forest project is taking shape around the idea of charcoal briquettes, though they are not really charcoal at all. They are partially decomposed and pressedSmall pieces of wood, from pruned fruit trees for use in experimental improved cookstove. biomass, made from material collected from the forest floor. With the briquettes as the basis of an inquiry based science class, we hope to create problem-solving leadership in our students. For the first time we will connect what the students are learning with the world they live in. Students can collect raw material from home, bring it to the school, and spend time working the decomposition and production of briquettes.

Our new friends at GERES, Mao Rotha Cambodian project director and Aurelien Herail, a GERES project director Rotha (right), Kari (middle) and Aurelien (left), a French doctoral student.French doctoral student, offered excellent input to assist the first stages of our project, the lessons of quality control they’ve learned from their attempts to introduce improved charcoal and cooking stoves to reduce raw wood consumption. With the vision in mind to one day sell our briquettes as a sustainable, income-generating product for our school, they can test the products at home with their parents, take notes to gain valuable GERES has created a new and improved cookstove that burns less charcoal more efficiently to reduce the demand for charcoal in the city. They have 30 cook stove production partners throughout the provinces and a demand for 110,000 new cookstoves each year. feedback for improvements, and then consider marketability of their product. The secondary effect is that we get the parents to try something new without having to buy something, and begin their conversion to sustainable use. The students take their feedback data and create materials to educate people about the use of their product.

Connecting classroom lessons of experimentation to an important issue in the students daily lives is a revolutionary style of learning for rural Cambodians.

In the next dispatch, read about our visit with Arn Chorn-Pond, a child of the Khmer Rouge who survived to tell his story through music. His Cambodian Living Arts program is saving Cambodian classical music from extinction. Kari with her new friend musician Arn Chorn-Pond in Yoen Soek's tuk tuk.I’m talking to him about using music to communicate our message of forest conservation to the children. We are both excited to lend our support to each other. I am especially honored, as Arn is a personal hero. His life story is detailed in the PBS documentary The Flute Player. What an intensely passionate and warm hearted person!

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Aural Wildlife Sanctuary is a “hot spot” of natural resource conflict.

January 24, 2007 By: Kari Category: 2007 January Trip, General 1 Comment →

Phnom Penh: My luggage got lost somewhere over the Pacific Ocean. I don’t care soKari writing dispatch. much about my clothes, meds and battery chargers; I can get by without those and find replacements at local shops. But the 60 pound duffle of donations for the school containing books, art supplies, puzzles and English learning games, are precious. I hope they will be found.

Andre and I are using this time to visit the offices of NGO’s with forest conservation and education projects. In meeting after meeting, Andre is getting a crash course in the extent of corruption in Cambodia. He can often be heard gasping “this is unbelievable�? in his gruff Brazilian accent. Here is what we Andre's first trip to Cambodia. have learned so far.

The Aural Wildlife sanctuary is a “hot spot�? of natural resource conflict. Flora and Fauna International, working in cooperation with the Ministry of Environment supports a community protection area of 2,100 hectares around the villages of Chrauk Tiek and Po Meas; children from both attend our school. A community protection committee of local citizens is charged with monitoring a pilot project of 400 hectares. The forest in this area is under siege on two levels, one is an illegal hardwood logging operation orchestrated by a high ranking former Khmer Rouge. He is a friend of the current Prime Minister, Hun Sen.Oxcart Caravan in the forest near the village of Chrauk Tiek and the Grady Grossman School.

Where, I asked, is our local Community Protection Area committee supposed to report the forest crimes they witness? The local authority. That, I presume, would be the policeman 3 doors down from the school who collects bribes from the demobilzed soldiers driving oxcarts full of tumloap tree trunks and sawn timber to market in Kampong Speu. Humm…with non-existent law enforcement what are the villagers to do?

This is why our school director’s message said “but we are unable to protect.�?

The second onslaught comes from small scale charcoal production with large scale impact. 75% of the cooking in Phnom Penh is done with charcoal and most of it comes from Kampong Speu, currently the Aural district in particular. The extended families of decommissioned soldiers from Takeo and Svay Reing provinces are newcomers to the region for the sole purpose of the charcoal trade. They collect wood as small as saplings for the kilns. I have seen the denuded forest creep ever closer to Chrauk Tiek on each trip to Cambodia. It has come to the point of consuming the village itself, and the school director’s message pleads, “they are cutting down a thousand trees every day, even the small one, we are powerless to stop this action.�?

Who can they report these crimes too? The same local authority. Hence, the reason they report the problems to me. I listen. However, I have not yet found anyone who can take action. Today we will go looking for WildAid, a group with large funding by actress Angelina Jolie, perhaps they can help in the area of law enforcement.

The process of making charcoal briquettes from organic matter holds promise to solve this problem in a sustainable, income generating way. However, the question remains if we can convince people to change to an alternative energy product. That’s a big hurdle.

The idea must be education driven. Since the school curriculum doesn’t include science, we’re considering how we can start this project with a forest science class, made relevant by experimenting with charcoal briquette production. The students can learn the process and experiment with different “recipies�? of collected organic matter to see which one will make the best briquette for cooking rice. One of the interesting advantages of organic matter briquette production is the flexibility to tailor a charcoal product to different burning needs, a short hot burn or long, slow simmer.

Involving the students in briquette making, to learn the science behind them, is our best way to show their parents an appropriate technology that is a viable, sustainable alternative. Our trick will be to find a market for the product. We are hoping to hunt down an NGO called Groupe Energies Renouvelables, Environnement et Solidarites (GERES-CFSP) tomorrow, a French organization that is working with high efficiency cooking stoves in Phnom Penh. If they can help us find the clientele, we can develop a system for transporting and selling the briquettes to generate income for the village and our school.

The Abundant Forest approach requires diversity to be sustainable. We are also researching agro-forestry and perma-culture options, as well as the development of eco-tourism as a part of the plan.

A reliable and useful communication system is a key component of our strategy, we will need to install an internet computer hub at the school for learning, for communication, for e-commerce, and for reporting forest crimes to encourage law enforcement. A computer hub will cost $18,000, and it will attract even more students to the school, requiring another building to accommodate them.

Tomorrow I will meet with Arn Chorn-Pond, from the Cambodian Living Arts program, to discuss how to incorporate a music, dance and art classes that can communicate a forest conservation message in a non-verbal way.

Our work must start immediately as the forest destruction is imminent.

Book coverOur funding mechanism through the sales of the my book Bones That Float, A Story of Adopting Cambodia is the key to our success to steer the village on a different course than the complete destruction of their forest and future. Please buy the book, and pass out the 10 postcards that come with your hardcover copy. We need 100 people to host a living room book discussion to get this project off the ground.

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Embracing A Greater Goal

January 23, 2007 By: Kari Category: 2007 January Trip, General No Comments →

Somewhere Over the Pacific Ocean. Back in October, when I received this distress message from Ngim Sobun, the director of the Grady Grossman School, I faced a dilemma.

“The natural resource in Aural area is unable to protect because of theNgim Sobun uneducated people whose have never received the education before. They cut down the trees to sell for exchanging rice and some for money. They don’t think about the future consequence for the children. Before they just cut down the best timber for the houses and for the furniture and this year they cut all kind of the trees even though they are saplings for the charcoal and wood sticks for cooking everyday. Each day they are destroying thousand trees and hunting the wild animals without any authority stops them in this action.”

I knew our forest community was in trouble but what could I do from half the world away? I had my own problems to deal with. I had received an offer from a prominent publisher to publish Bones That Float, A Story of Adopting Cambodia. But the deal offered a pittance to me and nothing to our school. What’s a mother to do? The aspiring writer just sighed “what a pity,” wishing to pursue my own dreams, but the mom in me could not accept defeat. If we want the world to change, we have to change ourselves, right? It seemed my moment of truth had come. I turned down the publisher to embrace a greater goal, devote my book to my 485 kids who don’t live with me and allow it to fund both education and conservation projects at our school.

On the very same day of the school director’s message I received a call from my friend, Faith Carvalhaes, and as I was explaining my troubles, she mentioned the work of her husband Andre, a biologist from Brazil, with expertise in sustainable land-use systems. An idea was hatched.

So that’s how I come to find myself in a Taiwanese airplane, sitting beside Andre, on our last connection to Phnom Penh, having been awake and in the airport system for more than 30 hours. Our brains still in transit over the Pacific ocean, we are trying to digest the details of 4 fifty-page manuals for building and operating a hand-made, organic-matter charcoal press. I only downloaded the manuals from the Legacy Foundation 6 hours before leaving the USA.

It’s been a high speed ripple effect of connections emanating from that decision to devote my creative work to my education mission. In November, my friends Jim Mitchell and Jill Hunter had visited the school on an off-the-beaten path side trip from their South East Asian vacation and came back with a report of so many students and so little space to educate them now that the school has become popular with local villagers. Jim told me the time he spent with the children and teachers at the Grady Grossman School was one of the most touching moments of his life. I know what he means, I’ve been coming back for 6 years.

Jim was so moved by the experience, he invited me to give a presentation to his daughter’s fourth grade class at the Wilson Elementry School. The teacher, Libby Wood, linked us to the idea of the organic matter charcoal presses that her father-in-law is working with in Kenya.

We have been studying the manuals the whole way and Andre is very excited about the possibilities. He reads the manuals to get psyched up and then turns back to the other reading material I handed him in the Denver airport, a human rights report by Global Witness entitled Institutionalized Corruption and Illegal Logging in the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary. Our school is in the Aural Wildlife Sanctuary.

Andre’s vision for the Abundant Forest Enterprise is to help local forest communities establish a sustainable land-use system with techniques that reduce the impact over the forest and increase their quality of life, allowing land users to produce food, fuel and regenerate the forest, while reducing the pressures on the mature forest. Income alternatives and environmental education develop the co-existence of economic growth and conservation. Chrauk Tiek village, where the Grady Grossman School is the only permanent building, will be the epicenter of his pilot project. Perhaps it will start with a forest science class regarding decomposition and charcoal briquette making.

The greater goal is unfolding before my eyes. The series of events that led to this moment prove that change comes through people and the process of networking and relationship building. That’s why we must continue toward American Assistance for Cambodia’s goal to leap frog the digital divide by installing an internet computer hub. With more people connected to the villagers at Chrauk Tiek, we can provide a witness to the forest, e-learning opportunities to the children, and economic hope to their families

Looking out the airplane window, we are descending over the Mekong Delta, aiming for the steamy runway of Pochentong International Airport. Soon we will disembark into the emotional cauldron that is Cambodia. We have a meeting with Community Forestry International, Flora and Fauna International, and Lutheran World Federation in 3 hours.

Book coverPlease support our work by ordering Bones That Float, A Story of Adopting Cambodia, and pass out the 10 postcards that come with your hardcover copy.

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Spread the word.